If you follow this blog, you’ve no doubt read about the 1997 Rokon that I put a new engine in a couple years ago. This weekend, I cleaned, lubed,and reinstalled the chains onto clean sprockets. The bike needs new drive and driven sprockets, as well as roller chain, but I think I’ll put if off until next season.
Everything cleaned up nicely:
Nothing you can’t imagine, but pics are always better. I use an old coax crimping tool I bought at Radio Shack years ago to bring the ends of the chain together without loosening the tensioner bolts:
As you can see, I’ve put it on a grinder to get enough clearance so it fits well. Here’s the tool in action:
Nothing fancy, but pretty effective.
I’ll clean up the rest of the bike over the next week or so (not that it’ll stay clean for long).
Stay tuned for the tale of my recent vacation through Colorado and Wyoming.
Several years ago, I converted the truck from its original 1G (first generation) alternator to a 3G alternator. It’s a 130 amp unit, which was better than the old 65 amp unit. Here’s the forum thread I read prior to doing my conversion. It’s pretty straightforward, if not easy.
Anyway, the conversion left me without a working amp gauge, because the wiring that FoMoCo uses as a shunt no longer is connected to the (eliminated) voltage regulator. RCCI to the rescue!
For the small sum of $55 (shipped), RCCI sells a replacement amp gauge that is converted to a volt gauge, using a new movement. The gauge face is perfect, and the needle comes repainted the bright orange that the factory used. It’s beautiful except that the rest of the dash is old and faded. I’ll learn to live with it. The new gauge is a sight to behold:
The old dash is pretty faded, so the new gauge really stands out:
Rocketman does an outstanding job with these conversions, and I wish I’d done this a LONG time ago.
When the truck is off, the needle is at “D” (0 volts): when the ignition is on, but the engine is off, the needle is just under the halfway mark. (actual battery voltage) When the engine is running, the needle is somewhere between just over half scale and past “D” (actual charging voltage). It’s something I’ll have to get used to, but I’m confident that it’ll give me a good idea about the condition of the charging system.
You can find the wiring diagram to this conversion HERE.
I used a relay to turn the angry pixies on and off at the alternator cable (connected to the mega fuse) to control the voltage going into the gauge;this allowed me to use the stock amp gauge wires, and simultaneously get voltage within 18″ of the alternator output.
If you’ve got an old Ford/Mercury that the ammeter doesn’t work, please consider installing one of these gauges.
My buddy and I made a mad dash to the Larcfest Friday afternoon to offload excess gear. I sold my Hammarlund HQ One-Seventy to a fella ho really wanted it, along with a couple hard cases and a window antenna. I came home with a set of USGI camo netting support poles, and ALMOST bought a gigantic signal generator, but “missed” it to another buyer-it was actually a relief.
On the trip down, my windshield washer pump cratered, so I replaced it Sunday morning. It was surprisingly easy to change, and I had it done it less than an hour, including washing the mung out of the reservoir.
I participated in the annual VHF/UHF contest today, attempting contact with fellow ham radio operators in Fremont county. I was unable to do so, either on 6 meters, 2 meters, or 70 cm.
Lots of chatter on 40 meters that I picked up with my 6M PAR omni:
It’s installed on a Poles and Holders (dot com) 22″ extendable mast-
and it works pretty good. It’s quick to deploy-Just run over the “holder”, drop in the mast, put on the antenna, connect the coax, raise it up, and you’re ready to transmit. Here’s the holder:
Easy to use. I was using my HF/VHF/UHF station:
It’s a Tac-Comm case (seems like I keep promising a video). It holds my Yaesu FT-857D all band all mode radio, its LDG AT-200Pro II autotuner, and my Yaesu FTM-400 XDR/DE 2M/70cm radio. Eventually I hope to put a Icom IC 7300 in it.
I was able to make contact with a local ham through the Meadowlark repeater, but not the Fremont county group. Next time, I hope.
I purchased new upper and lower ball joints and control arm bushings, strut arm bushings, and alignment shims from Rock Auto for the Nissan a few weeks ago, and last Thursday I installed the upper ball joints and control arm bushings. I might sound odd to hear someone say it, but I really enjoyed doing the work. My body didn’t enjoy it and was complaining that I was abusing it needlessly but I sucked it up and completed the job.
I’ve started the rebuild of the front end because the front tires wear funny, and I’d like to correct that prior to installing new ones. Naturally, I’ll need to the steering components, and I’ll be buying them next month-ish.
I’ll install the lower joints and bushings soon, when I can get it up on a rack so I don’t have to crawl on my back to do it. The torsion bars have to be “untensioned” to remove the parts, so I want to do it safely.
I sat for my Amateur Extra test (passed!) on 4 November, 2017, and promptly got sick for two weeks with what I think was bronchitis. I didn’t go to the doctor, so I’m not sure. I was out of work all but ten hours that week.
I installed new exhaust parts and power steering pump on the Ford, finished installing radios and wiring in my Tac-Comm box, and picked up some used solar panels from a fellow in Riverton. While I was there, my alternator cratered but as I had a spare, I installed it and got home just fine. More posts to follow as soon as I can gather photographs.
I’ve been pretty sick and I’m still coughing frequently, but I was well enough last Sunday to drill a hole through the Nissan’s firewall and install the 12V power cables through the firewall and install a grommet:
Here’s a closer view:
Later today I’ll plug up the hole I used previously-I need to glue the rubber plug back together and reinstall it, but that will be easy.
I installed a 12 volt power supply for powering my FTM-400XDR last winter, but I didn’t include proper fuses or use large enough wire, so I’m starting over, using a couple (excellent) Littlefuse Maxi fuse holders I bought over at Mouser.
First, I ran 10g bonded wire from the battery, using corrugated wire loom:
The run to the new fuse holders:
If you look carefully, you can see the little bracket I built to hold the fuse holders.
Here’s a view with the covers off, no fuses fitted yet:
And another view with the covers on:
The lead from the fuse box to the firewall isn’t visible, but it’s there, and here’s the loomed wire disappearing into the firewall:
This isn’t where it will pass through the firewall, but for now it’ll keep it out of the weather until I can finish the install.
Just my OCD brain trying to do it as well as I’m able.